Fes Travel Guide

Introducing Fes

Fes is not merely a city, it is a living, breathing medieval organism that has survived into the twenty first century with its soul remarkably intact. To step through the Bab Boujloud, the iconic blue tiled gate that serves as the primary entrance to the old city, is to leave the modern world behind in a sensory deluge of cedarwood smoke, pungent spices, and the rhythmic clanging of copper beaters. It is often described as the cultural and spiritual heart of Morocco, a place where the ancient traditions of scholarship, craftsmanship, and Islamic architecture are not just preserved in museums but are woven into the fabric of daily life.

The atmosphere in Fes is one of intoxicating complexity. It is a city of hidden courtyards behind unassuming mud brick walls, of narrow alleyways that lead to soaring minarets, and of a silence that can only be found in the depths of a car free labyrinth. Unlike the more polished, international feel of Marrakech, Fes retains a raw, scholarly dignity. It demands patience and a willingness to get lost, rewarding the curious traveller with glimpses of a civilization that has remained largely unchanged for over a millennium.

Geography and Setting

Fes is situated in the fertile Saiss plain in northern Morocco, positioned strategically between the Rif Mountains to the north and the Middle Atlas Mountains to the south. This location has historically made the city a vital crossroads for trade routes connecting the Mediterranean coast with sub Saharan Africa. The city is divided into three distinct parts: Fes el Bali, the original medina dating back to the 8th century, Fes el Jdid, the "new" city built by the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century, and the Ville Nouvelle, the modern administrative district established during the French Protectorate.

The geography of the medina itself is defined by the Oued Fes, a river that was once the lifeblood of the city's famous tanneries and gardens. The terrain is surprisingly hilly, with the medina sprawling across a valley. This topography creates spectacular viewpoints from the surrounding hills, particularly from the Merenid Tombs, where the dense tapestry of thousands of flat rooftops and emerald green minarets unfolds in a panoramic display. The surrounding landscape is a mix of olive groves, orchards, and limestone hills, providing a soft, green contrast to the ochre and terracotta hues of the urban centre.

Neighbourhoods and Districts to Explore

The primary focus for any visitor is Fes el Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the world's largest contiguous car free urban area. Within this maze, various quarters are defined by the trades that have occupied them for centuries. The Nejjarine district is famous for its woodworkers, where the scent of thuya and cedar fills the air, while the El Attarine area is the domain of spice merchants and grocers. To wander through these districts is to witness a medieval guild system still in active operation.

Fes el Jdid, though younger than the original medina, contains the sprawling Royal Palace (Dar el Makhzen) with its magnificent brass doors. This district is also home to the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter. The architecture here differs from the rest of the medina, featuring houses with wooden balconies overlooking the streets, a distinct departure from the inward facing design of traditional Islamic homes.

Outside the ancient walls lies the Ville Nouvelle, centred around Avenue Hassan II. This area offers a complete change of pace, with wide boulevards, outdoor cafes, and modern boutiques. It reflects the colonial influence of the early 20th century and serves as the commercial hub for the city's modern residents, providing a stark but fascinating contrast to the medieval density of the old quarters.

Cultural Heritage and History

Fes was founded in 789 AD by Idris I, and it quickly became a beacon of Islamic learning. The city’s history is inextricably linked with the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri. It is recognised by UNESCO and the Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world. This legacy of scholarship attracted philosophers, mathematicians, and theologians from across the Mediterranean and the Arab world, cementing the city's reputation as the "Athens of Africa."

The architectural heritage of the city reached its zenith under the Marinid dynasty in the 13th and 14th centuries. During this period, the city’s famous madrasas, or theological colleges, were constructed. These buildings, such as the Bou Inania Madrasa, are masterpieces of Moroccan craftsmanship, featuring intricate zellij tilework, carved stucco, and heavy cedar beams. The history of Fes is also a history of refuge, as it took in thousands of families fleeing the Reconquista in Spain, who brought with them the refined arts, music, and culinary traditions of Al-Andalus.

Experiences and Attractions

The most visceral experience in Fes is a visit to the Chouara Tannery. From the surrounding balconies, visitors can look down upon a honeycomb of stone vats filled with colourful dyes and pungent liquids used to treat pigeon, cow, and goat hides. It is a scene that has remained unchanged since the 16th century. For those seeking architectural beauty, the Al-Attarine Madrasa offers a more serene experience, with its courtyard showcasing the pinnacle of geometric design and Arabic calligraphy.

The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, housed in a beautifully restored 18th century funduq, or travellers' inn, provides insight into the city's long history of woodworking. Another essential site is the Zaouia Moulay Idriss II, the shrine of the city's founder, which remains a place of deep spiritual significance. While non Muslims cannot enter the sanctuary, the view through the ornate doorways offers a glimpse of the glittering chandeliers and devotion within. For a break from the urban intensity, the Jnan Sbil Gardens, located between the two medinas, offer a lush retreat of fountains, palms, and citrus trees.

Food and Drink

The culinary scene in Fes is often considered the most sophisticated in Morocco. Fassi cuisine is famous for its delicate balance of sweet and savoury flavours, a legacy of its Andalusian roots. The quintessential dish is the Pastilla, a flaky pigeon pie dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, though chicken versions are now more common. Tagines here often incorporate dried fruits like apricots and prunes, paired with tender lamb or beef.

Street food is an integral part of the Fes experience. In the souks, you will find stalls selling bissara, a thick fava bean soup topped with olive oil and cumin, and ma’qooda, deep fried potato cakes. For a formal dining experience, many of the city’s riads, traditional houses with interior courtyards, have been converted into restaurants where multi course feasts are served in palatial surroundings. Mint tea is the ubiquitous drink of choice, served with theatrical flair and a generous amount of sugar, representing the cornerstone of Moroccan hospitality.

When to Visit

The best times to visit Fes are during the spring, from March to May, and autumn, from September to November. During these months, the weather is pleasantly warm, making the extensive walking required to explore the medina manageable. Spring also brings the benefit of seeing the surrounding Saiss plain in full bloom.

The summer months of July and August can be intensely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40 degrees Celsius, which can make the narrow, crowded streets of the medina feel claustrophobic. Winter, from December to February, is generally mild during the day but can be surprisingly cold at night, with frequent rainfall. A significant cultural event to consider is the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, usually held in June, which brings together musicians from across the globe for performances in historic venues like the Bab al-Makina.

Getting Around

Navigating Fes is an exercise in ancient urban planning. Inside Fes el Bali, the only way to move is on foot, or occasionally by dodging a heavily laden donkey, the medina's primary form of heavy transport. The main thoroughfares, Tala’a Kebira and Tala’a Seghira, run roughly parallel through the medina and serve as useful navigational anchors. It is highly recommended to hire a local guide for the first day to understand the layout, as GPS signals often fail in the deep, narrow alleys.

For travel between the medina and the Ville Nouvelle, "petit taxis" are the most convenient option. These small, red vehicles are metred and inexpensive. For longer journeys to the airport or nearby towns, "grand taxis" or private transfers are the standard. The city is also well connected by the national rail network, with regular trains running to Rabat and Casablanca, making it an accessible hub for exploring northern Morocco.

Nearby Destinations

Fes serves as an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region. The Roman ruins of Volubilis, a UNESCO site featuring remarkably preserved mosaics, are an easy day trip away. Nearby is the holy town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, perched dramatically across two hills. The imperial city of Meknes, known for its monumental gates and the vast Heri es-Souani granaries, is also within an hour's drive.

For those seeking nature, the Middle Atlas town of Ifrane, with its alpine architecture and cedar forests, offers a complete change of scenery. It is also possible to head further north to the blue painted streets of Chefchaouen, though this is a longer journey often better suited for an overnight stay. To the south, the road leads toward the Sahara, often passing through the palm groves of the Tafilalet region.

Planning Your Visit

Fes is a destination for the intrepid traveller who values authenticity over convenience. It is a city that requires at least three days to truly appreciate, allowing time to move beyond the main tourist arteries and into the quieter residential quarters. While the medina can be overwhelming, the hospitality of the local people and the sheer historical weight of the surroundings create an experience unlike any other in North Africa.

When planning your stay, choosing a riad within the medina is essential for fully immersing yourself in the atmosphere. These traditional homes offer an oasis of calm away from the bustle outside. Reeltrip can help you find the perfect accommodation to suit your needs, whether you seek a modest, family run guesthouse or a restored merchant's palace. Fes is not a city you simply visit, it is a city you feel, and those who approach it with an open mind will find it to be one of the most rewarding destinations in Europe and the Mediterranean basin.