Devon Travel Guide

Introducing Devon

To arrive in Devon is to enter a landscape of profound dualities, where the salt-cruste…

To arrive in Devon is to enter a landscape of profound dualities, where the salt-crusted ruggedness of two opposing coastlines meets the silent, ancient granite of a wild interior. It is the only county in the United Kingdom to boast two separate shores, the Bristol Channel to the north and the English Channel to the south, each possessing a distinct personality that has shaped the character of its people for centuries. There is an unmistakable sense of deep time here, found in the sunken lanes that have been worn into the earth over a thousand years and the prehistoric remains that litter the high moors.

Devon represents the quintessential English escape, yet it avoids the manicured artifice often found in other rural retreats. It remains a working landscape of red-soil farms, active fishing ports, and vast, protected commons. Whether one is standing atop a wind-scoured tor in Dartmoor or navigating the narrow, cobbled streets of a medieval estuary town, the atmosphere is one of enduring permanence. It is a place that invites slow exploration, rewarding those who venture beyond the arterial roads to discover hidden combes and secret coves.

Geography and Setting

The geography of Devon is defined by its dramatic topographical shifts

The geography of Devon is defined by its dramatic topographical shifts. To the north, the coastline is defined by some of the highest sea cliffs in the country, where the hogback hills of Exmoor plummet into the churning waters of the Atlantic. Here, the landscape is vertical and visceral, characterized by rocky foreshores and the vast, sandy expanses of Croyde and Saunton Sands, which draw surfers from across Europe to their consistent breaks.

Inland, the county is dominated by the twin granite plateaus of Dartmoor and Exmoor. Dartmoor, the larger of the two, is a sprawling wilderness of high moorland, bogs, and iconic granite tors, distinctive rock formations that crown the hills like ruined castles. This interior acts as a massive watershed, giving birth to the numerous rivers, the Exe, the Dart, the Teign, and the Taw, which carve lush, wooded valleys as they flow toward the sea.

The southern coast offers a softer, though no less spectacular, geography

The southern coast offers a softer, though no less spectacular, geography. This is the land of the "sunken" rias, or drowned river valleys, such as the Kingsbridge Estuary and the River Yealm. This coastline is part of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site to the east and the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to the west. The soil here is famously fertile and strikingly red, a result of the New Red Sandstone that underpins much of the south and east of the county.

Neighbourhoods and Districts to Explore

While Devon is a vast county rather than a single urban centre, it is composed of several distinct regions that function as cultural and geographical districts. The South Hams, located in the southernmost tip between Plymouth and Torbay, is perhaps the most celebrated. It is a region of rolling hills and sheltered waters, containing the prestigious sailing hubs of Salcombe and Dartmouth. These towns, with their steep streets and pastel-coloured waterfronts, serve as gateways to the secluded beaches of East Portlemouth and the dramatic cliffs of Start Point.

To the north, the district of North Devon feels more remote and rugged

To the north, the district of North Devon feels more remote and rugged. The twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth, connected by a unique water-powered cliff railway, offer a Victorian charm set against the backdrop of the Valley of Rocks. Further west, the surfing villages of Braunton and Mortehoe provide a laid-back, coastal atmosphere that contrasts with the traditional market towns like South Molton.

The heart of the county is dominated by the Mid Devon district and the vast expanse of Dartmoor National Park. Here, the "neighbourhoods" are ancient parishes and stannary towns like Ashburton and Chagford. These settlements have served as centres for the wool and tin trades for centuries and maintain a sturdy, stone-built elegance. In the east, the landscape transitions into the East Devon pebblebed heaths and the elegant Regency seaside resorts of Sidmouth and Budleigh Salterton, which retain a refined, old-world character.

Cultural Heritage and History

Devon’s history is inextricably linked to the sea and the soil

Devon’s history is inextricably linked to the sea and the soil. During the Elizabethan era, the county was the maritime powerhouse of England, the birthplace of explorers and privateers such as Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh. The naval heritage remains palpable in the historic dockyards and the ancient maritime architecture of the coastal ports.

The county’s cultural identity is also forged in its agricultural traditions. The "Devon Closewool" sheep and "South Devon" cattle are symbols of a farming heritage that has shaped the patchwork quilt of fields and hedgerows that define the inland view. This is a land of "holloways," ancient tracks that have sunk deep into the soft sandstone and limestone over centuries of use by livestock and carts.

Architecturally, Devon is famous for its use of cob and thatch

Architecturally, Devon is famous for its use of cob and thatch. In villages like Broadhembury or Lustleigh, one can see perfectly preserved examples of these traditional building methods, where thick walls made of earth and straw support heavy, meticulously thatched roofs. The religious heritage is equally significant, with Exeter Cathedral standing as one of the finest examples of decorated Gothic architecture in the United Kingdom, featuring the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in the world.

Experiences and Attractions

For those seeking the sublime, a trek across Dartmoor to reach the summit of Great Mis Tor or Haytor provides a panoramic view of the county’s wild interior. The moor is also home to the eerie, stunted oaks of Wistman’s Wood, an ancient high-altitude woodland that feels like a fragment of a lost world.

The coastline offers a different set of attractions

The coastline offers a different set of attractions. The South West Coast Path, which circumnavigates the entire county, provides access to spectacular landmarks such as Bolt Head or the dizzying heights of Great Hangman. For a more structured experience, the gardens of RHS Rosemoor in the Torridge Valley showcase the diversity of plants that thrive in Devon’s temperate, oceanic climate.

History enthusiasts often gravitate to the ruins of Berry Pomeroy Castle, tucked away in a deep wooded valley, or the National Trust’s Castle Drogo, the last castle built in England, which sits dramatically overlooking the Teign Gorge. The steam railways, such as the South Devon Railway or the Dartmouth Steam Railway, offer a nostalgic way to view the river valleys, puffing through landscapes that have changed little since the Victorian era.

Food and Drink

The culinary identity of Devon is built upon the exceptional quality of its raw ingredi…

The culinary identity of Devon is built upon the exceptional quality of its raw ingredients. The most famous export is undoubtedly the Devon cream tea. Unlike the neighbouring tradition in Cornwall, in Devon, the heavy clotted cream is spread first onto a warm scone, followed by a dollop of strawberry jam. The cream itself is a product of the rich, grass-fed dairy herds that thrive in the damp, mild climate.

Seafood is equally vital, with the day boats of Brixham and Plymouth landing some of the finest catches in the country. Brixham Market is one of the busiest in England, supplying world-class turbot, scallops, and Dover sole to restaurants across the globe. In the estuary towns, River Teign mussels and hand-picked crab from Start Bay are local staples.

The county is also a significant producer of cider, with traditional orchards still dot…

The county is also a significant producer of cider, with traditional orchards still dotting the landscape in areas like Whimple and Ipplepen. Unlike the mass-produced varieties, Devon cider is often "scrumpy," a potent, still, and cloudy beverage that reflects the rustic nature of the countryside. In recent years, the south-facing slopes of the Dart Valley have also become home to successful vineyards, producing award-winning English sparkling wines.

When to Visit

Devon is a year-round destination, though the experience changes significantly with the seasons. The summer months of July and August are the most popular, especially for families seeking the traditional seaside holiday. During this time, the coastal towns are vibrant and bustling, and the sea temperatures are at their warmest.

However, the shoulder seasons of May, June, and September often provide the best balanc…

However, the shoulder seasons of May, June, and September often provide the best balance of pleasant weather and quieter trails. Late spring sees the hedgerows burst into life with primroses and bluebells, while autumn brings a spectacular display of colour to the wooded valleys of the Dart and the Exe. Winter in Devon has its own austere beauty; it is the time for bracing walks on empty beaches and retreating to a pub with a roaring log fire in a village like Widecombe-in-the-Moor.

Getting Around

Navigating Devon requires a shift in pace. While the M5 motorway terminates at Exeter, providing easy access from London or Bristol, the true essence of the county is found on its B-roads and single-track lanes. A car is almost essential for exploring the more remote corners of Dartmoor or the North Devon coast, though drivers should be prepared for high hedgerows and occasional encounters with livestock.

The rail network is surprisingly scenic

The rail network is surprisingly scenic. The Riviera Line runs along the coast from Exeter to Paignton, offering world-famous views as the tracks skirt the sea walls at Dawlish. For those without a vehicle, the "Atlantic Coast Express" bus services and local ferries, such as those crossing the Dart between Dartmouth and Kingswear, provide essential and picturesque links between coastal communities.

Nearby Destinations

Devon is perfectly positioned for wider exploration of the West Country. To the west lies Cornwall, with its own rugged coastline and Celtic heritage easily accessible via the Tamar Bridge at Plymouth. To the east, the county of Somerset offers the rolling Mendip Hills and the historic charms of Glastonbury.

For a more urban contrast, the city of Bristol is within a two-hour drive or train jour…

For a more urban contrast, the city of Bristol is within a two-hour drive or train journey, offering a vibrant cultural and shopping scene. Alternatively, a short trip across the county border leads to the Dorset coast, where the fossil-rich beaches of Lyme Regis continue the geological story of the South Coast.

Planning Your Visit

A visit to Devon can range from a high-end gastronomic tour of the South Hams to a rugged backpacking expedition across the moors. The county caters to all, but it is best enjoyed by those who appreciate the outdoors and a slower tempo of life. Reeltrip can assist in finding the perfect base, whether it is a converted linhay on the edge of the moor or a boutique hotel overlooking the English Channel.

Visitors should plan for at least a week to truly appreciate the diversity of the lands…

Visitors should plan for at least a week to truly appreciate the diversity of the landscape. The weather can be unpredictable, often changing rapidly as systems move in from the Atlantic, so waterproof gear is a necessity regardless of the season. Overall, Devon offers a sense of space and a connection to the natural world that is increasingly rare, making it one of the most restorative destinations in the United Kingdom.